Porlock (July 5th)

overcast clearing to hot sunny afternoon.
one train, one bus and im in Minehead by 12:30 for food and find the start line,

 met a couple there and our paths crossed many times during the afternoon.
Left along the promenade though there is an alternative straight up in the woods, the path soon ran of tarmac and into scrub easing upslope into trees, a while later it turns left in the deciduous woodland for the first real climb of this route, its uphill all the way to the days high point Selworthy becon (950ft) though the slope is gentle after leaving the woods for open moorland.

The views are now enormous across the Bristol channel Wales is clear to see beyond the herm islands, now starts the descent, gentle at first then very steep towards Hurlstone point, just short of the beach was a handy seat for pack of rest and check mapping, good move a left turn took us along a woodland stream, over a foot bridge to Kitnors tea shop in Bossington.

Lovely couple i met on first day who also enjoyed a tea shop.

From here Bossington beach was a short stroll and take the shingle ridge to porlock weir, i had checked tide tables so would be here when tide was out hoping to see the submerged forest remnants, this was disappointing but the breach in the shingle (1996) was plain to see.
Back in porlock for fish and chips, campsite is 100 yards from village centre, the church has only half a spire but i have not found out why . found emperor moth caterpillar on one path and swifts overhead.

The campsite was £7 and had a nice chatty owner, late evening store nearby made it pretty near perfect.

Culbone

Blue sky soon hot.
At porlock weir the path slips between an inn and hotel up path to meadows then into woodland. it is steep in parts but the winding route is a joy sometimes flanked by old walls and arches,

reaching the tiny village of Culbone and the opportunity to see its tiny church (rumour has it that this is where the missing upper steeple from Porlock was placed).

Said to be the smallest church in England the church seats about 30 people, and the chancel is 13.5 feet  x 10 feet , the nave 21.5 feet  x 12.33 feet  and the building has a total length of 35 feet . Services are still held there, despite the lack of access by road. The church is probably pre-Norman in origin, with a 13th century porch, and late 15th century nave. It was refenestrated and reroofed around 1810 and the spirelet added in 1888, with  further restoration in 1928. (a fine place for a pack of rest).

Woody bay

The trail continued through an area susceptible to land slips, there were two well signed diversions so no problem.
Eventually got to Foreland point, the most northerly point of devon, while sat for a snack some small deer appeared grazing on cliff opposite.
Trail down to Lynmouth with its small harbour, cliff railway 

 

and tea shop where i took a long rest as the morning had felt tough.
Up the road to Lynton which has shops for supplies and surprise of the day my first sighting of a Humming bird hawkmoth.
Moved on to valley of the rocks 

 

which was well worth seeing though surprised it is also home to local cricket pitch, a large pen contained the famed feral goats which are penned for a health check. 

 

More wooded valleys and moorland along ever steep cliffs to here ,good day. 

Great hangman

Misty rain on blustery wind.
I had to move uphill of the cliffs for levelish ground to camp on, ended up beside mound signed as Roman fortlet!,

sheltered by gorse i was dry and warm.
Morning , back along cliffs but soon found shelter descending into wooded valley of Heddons mouth which included a beautiful stone bridge.

Plenty more testing climbs and panoramic views along headlands eventually reaching great hang mans cairn of stones which apparently will be highest point of whole trail.

During the morning i saw  only two people, now head for combe martin and a pot of tea.

Bull point

what a spectacular day.
Combe martin was pleasant for snack then back on the trail, at Hele i was by a water wheel drinking tea watching bumble bees collecting pollen, i had to think their bulging pollen sacks probably meant that a size for effort comparison meant i had an easier day than they did.

woops

That was part mail, lost path on way out of Ilfracombe, then found using compass, at Lee barman really helpful and made great coffee, the pub featured a whale on it’s sign and on it’s gate (pervious image). On reaching  bull point lighthouse a terrific wind got up accompanied by low cloud (fog), so  just had to rush pitching tent up as rain arrived fast and visibility dropped dramatically.

Woolacombe

Overcast lumpy clouds sprinkle of rain sunny patches.

My tent kept rain of but kit generally damp from yesterday so hope i can hang kit in a sunny  breeze later.
More steps and slopes along to Morte point for a snack with sheep for company, couple more miles of cliffs when suddenly woolacombe beach comes into view, its big with rolling waves and surfers , this looks an attractive change in walking surface.

Spot the sheep.

Chivenor

Couple of miles walk along Woolacombe beach was excellent (constant roar of the waves rolling in), then climb up above the cliffs at Putsborough onto sheep grazed grass all the way to baggy point from where Lundy island is clear to see, passed plenty of lepidoptera enjoying the sun including ringlet and small copper butterflies plus caterpillar of the drinker moth.
Follow cliffs down to Croyd for another shorter but very nice beach then up steps to more downland (where a Stonechat let me know i was in its territory) along to Saunton, this is where we come to a huge expanse of sand dunes which took hours to walk round (aint complaining) there is enough variety here to keep any sort of naturalist enthralled for days, i did see first Fritilary buterfly of the year.
Its one of those trails when you can see the end long before arrival at Braunton, i asked at the caravan club site if i could stay but was informed that as it was caravan club they wernt allowed to take tents (one field, three caravans looked under utilised to me).
Gained directions to site at Chivenor from locals, directions and site turned out fine , only downside is traffic noise, im opposite the air sea rescue helicopter station which was interesting walk goes along side their security fence on old railbed, managed to spread out kit and get it dry. All in all a splendid day.

The campsite was £10 so not a bargain but handy for the hiker is a garage directly across the road which did have selection of food for sale and did take away hot drinks.

Westward Ho!

Overcast some showers sunny spells later.
Leave the campsite at Chivenor and head for diused railtrack that follows waters edge to Barnstaple, here i took a mid morning break for a snack, some of old railway buildings have been retained with modern uses, many arched bridge across the river and a few little streets to get on another disused track bed.

These old railbeds are also part of the tarka trail.

 

 

Some walkers considered this section boring! i found it all quite pleasant. (one person had even taken the bus around this section).

This path will take me to Bideford, the path is often on low embankment across salt mashes but does drift inland through cuttings near the middle before hugging river bank into Bideford, much of route is in tree shadows as nature reclaims the edges and so it is good for wildlife, on some long grass saw emerging and flying burnet moths, many railway buildings preserved, at Bideford had pot of tea in old train carriage as it was rainning but stopped as i left.

 

Spotted this statue on the way into Bideford, the surname caught my attention (pine-coffin).

Found way along waters edge towards Appledore and turned inland to campsite on map, set up tent then walked around coast to Wetswood ho!, Northam barrows country park is most of that area it includes a golf course amongst the scrub and grassland apparently quite happy to share the area with hundreds of sheep and large number of ponies.
From the nortern point of the park it easy to see where i walked yesterday afternoon about half a mile across the estuary.

Looking across to Braunton burrows.

Clovelly

Overcast, humid occasional shower.
Left campsite early, found shop on the way into  westwood ho for supplies, i noticed this seagull and the paper shop owner told me it was a regular feeder on bread delivery outside mini mart that was yet to open.

 

Great walk along promenade before tourists are about, first mile of trail on old rail track then the steep up and down starts, a mixture of cliffs, scrub, woodland and fields.
No refreshment available until Clovelly which is a treat to visit, the last couple of miles were a wide track called the hobby drive, whose gentle slopes were welcome after the previous climbs.

Its just so much pretty and dramatic landscape, now loaded with supplies for another section.

Hartland point

Another up and down stroll, the best bit of this section was the Angel wings memorial shelter.

Bude

Last night soon after settling down in tent, despite the shelter provided by a hedge the wind rattled the tent at times and the rain sounded like it would hammer its way through the fabric.
This morning all was calm, the overcast sky beginning to show blue patches and what a splendid view of Lundy island .

So, ham sandwiches and black coffee then pack and track.
When i reached Hartland quay no facilities were open but luck prevailed when i asked one of the hotel workers about the chance of a milky coffee one soon arrived and there was an outside tap to fill my water bottle (most important).
As advised i had packed enough food from Clovelly to get me to bude and nothing was available on route.
My guide book states (one of the most difficult days along the whole of the south west coast path), i can believe that, it is a continuous see saw of slopes many long and very steep, the trade of is dramatic scenery with a capital (D) , contorted rocks crashing waves, insects galore, birds included buzzard and peregrine falcon. Finaly reached Bude for cup of tea and proper meal (fish and chips) During the day passed into Cornwall.

Bridge and sign entering Cornwall.

Boscastle

some sun one shower.
Day traveling with Ed, also doing the path.
Nice gentle start along low cliffs then Widemouth beach, then the steep climbs returned, good pastie and salad in Crackington haven.

Passed a South West Coast Path mileage marker.

 

Back to tough terrain and wonderful views, spotted ferul goats and first Painted lady butterfly,

Note hight of green marker next to gate indicating water level when Boscastle was flooded in 2004.

Port Isaac

Cloudy sunshine, one shower.
This morning started with a bus ride back to Boscastle, i was the only passenger and the driver was very chatty so good start. On arrival found take away coffee and went to youth hostel to be informed those ahead were fully booked. Away on track it was soon beautiful enough to sit and stare for a while at some spots, as i neared Tintagel the path became very busy with day walkers to valley of the rocks (seem to have heard that name before).
A Ploughmans  lunch in Tintagle with pot of tea then back on route, it wasnt to long before i came across Ed and his dad,

we moved on (chasing insects at times) and the terrain reverted to steep slopes for a couple of hours (very few people on this section) then the day mellows a little for the last mile to Port isaac another place with no campsite, Eds dad suggested i ride with them back to Tintagel which was excellent idea and another example of the kindness we bump into, and of all the coincidence we look round at a sudden toot toot to see my morning bus driver go by waving and smiling. Must rate as another good day.

Harlyn

Stormy weather.
I had to take two buses via Camelford to reach the mornings start at Port isaac, the fishing village was a very nice start to the trail which had a couple of steep gulleys early on, then the trail mellowed togentler slopes annd some beach walking to the Padstow ferry. by this time i had been wet and dry once which was to happen again. Looking at my map on approaching the ferry i noticed the doom bar which is apparently a famous mud bank where many a ship has floundered (is this what the popular beer (doom bar) named after.
In Padstow even the campsite was fully booked so i had to walk on to here arriving 9pm.
The big thing this day has been the ferocious wind which has whipped the sea into a frenzy, the last lot of cliffs had large nunbers of people just starring in awe at the power display. Was it a good day, YEP

 

This poor quality photo is looking down a hole in the middle of a field (sink hole) where the sea has tunneled through soft rock under ground from the cliff face then the land has collapsed, there really are some remarkable sights to see on the trail. (on ordance map as round hole just before Trevone bay).

It is clearly visible in this screen shot from google earth.

Constantine bay

Stormy.
Its sure been tough in the wind and rain, found shelter against a hedge ,had my snack and hoping to find a cafe soon.

Newquay

Yep wind and rain continues.
One campsite didn’t do single night bookings the other (Mother Ivey,s Bay)was 16 pounds per night, per person! , It is accesible straight of the coast path. I was away early and in waterproofs through more of the storm, some sheltered areas were nice when the sun came out. I was lucky enough to call in at the youth hostel (Treyarnon bay) for coffee and internet access to upload camera onto the flickr feed, and not much further along found a small shop for pastie and tea whch had picnic tables outside where i laid out my waterproofs to dry.
Again the coast was hoast to dramatic waves thrashing the shoreline, at times it was like snow blowing by but was foam of the sea (is this due to pollutants).

Sea stacks along the route

In contrast one sheltered spot when sun came out had at least two humming bird hawk moths feeding on knapweed. hope fully one is in photo

As usual not a great photo (quick point and shoot with phone) below is much better image from the internet. To think these imigrant species arrive from as far away as Africa is nothing short of remarkable. I was hopeing to see such delights along the south coast but the weather has obviously been good enough for them to already spread across the country.

(Photo by D Green).

Approaching Newquay the weather again worsened and there was a definite lack of people out and about,

From this distant view of Newquay till i arrived there the amount of rain increased and if anything so did the wind speed, to be honest it was pretty bleak in the town for those looking to get a tan on their summer holiday(time for a break).

I hope the photo’s display the remarkable contrasts (environmental) in such a day.

Weather/updates

I found a weather station for Newquay which for Thursday gives rainfall as 6.6 millimeters, i suspect that the rain was traveling horizontally so didn’t fall in the rain gauge but continued until it hit a vertical surface. Max wind speed recorded 39.1 mph.

I had been wearing HiTech Knysna boots which are very nice to wear but damp grass results in damp feet (they just ain’t near waterproof) so i’m swapping back to my Berghaus boots. Jeans, over shirt and hat have all gone thread bare so have replaced them, other than that kit seems in good order.

River Gannel

Oh Great, the tide is out so the footbridge can be used to cross the river (saves wadeing)

Perranporth

Overcast, humid.
Newquay is a busy place so good to get on the trail which has been gentle thus far.
crossing the foot bridge was fun as i had missed a turning but a local soon put me right. Its been a series of headlands and coves ending with over a mile of level beach into Perranporth. Today i noticed plenty of cinibar moth caterpillars on ragwort.

St Agnes head

Last evening i set of on route and the scenery soon changed to spoil heaps from minning days and it started to rain, nothing heavy just prolong so i took shelter when it appeared in the form of WW2 bunker.
Eventually had to accept no more progress for the day and pitch tent amongst scrub.
This morning still rain at times passed a large number of old engine houses/chimneys, no where open yet for supplies and views limited by fog, quite pleasant in one rest spot watching birds collecting food for young,

Hayle

A day of rain at varying rates with fog until late afternoon. Away early for steady plodding in the waterproofs that soon get hot.
Porthtowan seemed to offer alternate path inland through sheltered woodland but the signs disappeared and i did a two mile loop to get back on course, this had its good bit in that the sheltered area had a Beutiful damoisel damselfly resting on bracken.

 

Photo by David Eddington.

Portreath produced a good cafe, the walking included a couple of steep sections but most of it was quite pleasant waking.
The lighthouse at Godrevy was hard to see in the fog, this is where meteorology gets interesting as it was plain to feel a bank of different air enter the area, this prompted a big increase in rainfall for ten minutes, then it stopped and much of the fog had gone.
From here into Hayle the path takes a tortuous journey through sand dunes (i would suggest others follow the beach).

St Ives

Sunshine and fluffy clouds.
Dry night at the excellent Fernleigh B + B.

 

Cannon on cycle route between Hayle and St Ives.

Pleasant walk around coast to St ives which is pretty with a capital P, but crawling with tourists, now half mile further on it is quiet again.

Pendeen

After the bustle of St Ives the afternoon just got quieter and quieter, there were some testing slopes but a lot of nice walking in between with occasional boggy/muddy patches.
It was generally hot so plenty of stops for snacks and water, time i reached pendeen watch lighthouse i was out of food and water. then good fortune smiled on me in the form of another walker who informed me there was a campsite behind the pub in a nearby village (Boscaswell), the village shop was open and next door a fish and chip shop, so all problems solved, the next surprise while eating my fish and chips was young Ed came wandering by.
So its been quite a day, the main feature of this path section is rocks, huge numbers of huge rocks strewn across the area, sometimes the route was scrabbling over said rocks so progress was slow, also at these temperatures is the odour of hiker much of it caused by bacteria, maybe we should embrace bacteria as they are the only culture some people have.

Greevor

Rained in the night, now raining and foggy.
The Pendeen watch lighthouse is winking and beeping to keep shipping distant, the trail soon enters a huge mass of tin mining remains,

i

ts easy to see the amount of employment that is now gone, the sky looks to be clearing.
So already a great day interest wise, being on the coast i keep looking out to sea as basking sharks are reported in the area , who knows what luck may send my way.

Porthcurno

At cape Cornwall the sun came out and ladies turned up to open the tea van, two teas and a cheese sandwich later my tent had dried spread over a picnic table the day was looking great. There were some steep slopes, some rock scrambling, but plenty of good walking.

 

The path shortly before Sennan cove.

Passed the lands end post where some cyclists were doing pre lejog photos, some more fantastic natural rock structures, at one point just had to stop and admire a seal who appeared to be having the greatest of times demonstrating how agile it was in the water, these are the special moments that make a good day great.

Night out

A night out on the cliff tops with a near full moon casting a coloured band across the sea surface, distant light houses winking as well lit shipping passes by, there was some kind of show going on at the Minak open air theatre so a loud but pleasant opera voice was the back ground, sometimes it can feel like we are in a scene from some epic movie.
Now we have crept round cornwalls bottom im hoping the wind will be behind us at times.

Penzance

Hot sunny little cloud.
What a great day to see dawn arriving, soon on the trail for some steep terrain which later in the day really mellowed out.
Joy of joys to find a cafe open in Lamorna bay on arrival, the full breakfast and pot of tea was just the ticket.
The trail goes through two stretches of woodland/nature reserves, as the temperature rises so do the number of insects, the views continue to please the eye as the landscape gradually changes into small towns. Mousehole followed by Newlyn where a good number of fishing vessels can still be seen.

Penzance was by far the busiest as i worked my way uphill to the youth hostel , camping 10 pounds for members !

Portleven

Overcast warm, dry turning to drizzle.
Good breakfast at the youth hostel and away through Penzance as its waking , along the sea front while it was still quiet towards the picturesque island of St michaels mount, it would have been possible to walk there as the tide was out and the causeway clearly visible.

 

I soon happened upon a chap about to set of in his sea kayak which looked interesting, apparently 15 to 20 miles per day were normal distance for him.
The trail today had some steep slopes, some tarmac and some sandy beach, on reaching Praa sands it was time for a pot of tea and here i met a couple walking the coast path (Dave and Debs) with their Alsatian dog, so every day continues to be interesting and different.
Porthleven is pretty, the campsite 4 pounds and dog friendly has to be recommended.

The Lizard

Overcast clearing to blue sky.
After makeshift breakfast (macaroni and chilli sauce) i set of on route to the trail, in Porthleven were some fishermen waiting for their skipper who arrived a few minutes later, he and a couple more were suffering hangovers, you could see those that werent impressed with the time it was taking to get the little boat out from amongst others to head out of port. As i walked uphill out of town i could see they hadn’t left port (made me think of Laurel and Hardy).

 

The atmosphere was already warming as i crossed the Loe bar so at the next high point i stopped for a rest to enjoy the view when along came Dave and Debs, we then spent much of the day together. At Gunwalloe a tea break was taken but was a mistake at those prices.
Further along is the Winwalow church with its separate bell tower built into the hillside and nicely carved roof interior of the entrance,

tea break at Mullion cove was followed by the toughest climb of the day which is followed by plenty of grassy clifftop walking, a real treat with brilliant views across to Lands end and forward to the Lizard britains most southerly point.
Theres no doubt that Kynance cove is a picture but this was a sunny sunday and im afraid it was a human seal colony, quite a contrast after the quiet trail.
Progress may seem to be a snails pace at times but it sure is good to sit and ponder, and of course the plentiful number of banded snails are interesting genetically.

Coverack

Mist clearing to blue sky, hot.
Not to much specific to say about today other than visually fantastic as the mist cleared the view seemed endless of the coast line disappearing along the easter horizon, yachts and shipping spread across a sparkling sea.
Crab boats working close to the shore from which people where casting fishing lines, i didnt see them catching a lot but felt they weren’t concerned.
Passed old lighthouses and transmission post for the remarkable wireless from days gone bye.
A short day with plenty of rest stops to cool down, Cadgwith was an absolute picture of a place to stop for tea, enhanced when Ed turned up, on display there was an enormous crab (yours for 18 pounds). 

 
There were some steep climbs today, and having stumbled many times on these hikes today was the first time i went completely flat on the floor, some how today i lost the next two days pages of my guide book .
Coverack not having much in the way of supply shops so i was lucky to catch the post office before it closed
Surprise of the day was seeing several wall brown butterflies which have become uncommon (3 years since i last saw one). 

 

Falmouth

Overcast a little sun at times, humid gentle breeze.
What a day walking with Ed.
Not a particularly early start and soon stopped for bacon sandwich and pot of tea in the village, then away on route, a mixture off coves cliff tops and occasional small beach, any steep gradients were short.
( Porthallow it was time for a break at the official half way marker, here was a pub with a splendid interior of old shipping parts that did very nice coffee, there was also the weather prediction stone that was curious.

 

Gillian creek was at low tide so the weed covered slippery stepping stones could be used as the crossing point.

 

Helford was the next river crossing , the right point took a bit of finding as unusually here was a route section that seemed lacking in marker posts, before taking the little ferry across the river. tea was drunk and supplies bought at the post office which was the only shop we had seen, the crossing didn’t take long and it was back on the trail around some beautiful headlands.
Falmouth started to look big in the distance and the walk in seemed long past rows of hotels then the path goes around penddenis point with its castle and finally along the docks , a store turned up with an ATM just when needed then it was look for ferry, when we found a ferry point we were discussing how the time was to late for ordinary ferry when a lady came across and said the usual ferry was broken so an old open one had been called in and would be doing a crossing at 8:30 half hour away (her husband was skipper) Greg was full of info about the area, after landing passengers at St Mawes he went out of his way to drop us at Place right where coast path continues, a couple of miles walk put us on the headland overlooking Falmouth it was getting dark so quick pitch of tents and enjoy the fantastic view.
Words aren’t good enough to describe the scene better than any travel brocher image, the town lit up, two castles, a close lighthouse and shipping parked on the sea, wish you all could see it sometime.

Boswinger

Some cloud some sun hot.
Early start on a beautiful morning with more great views across Falmouth bay, soon into the coastal clambering, there were a few climbs that had the legs low on oxygen, the recovery as the terrain levels is still a great feeling.
Portscatho was disappointing as i was hoping for a breakfast but only a little shop was open so i settled for a pork pie and some orange juice. (curiously i noticed on the orange juice conatainer it said suitable for vegetarians, i did wonder which sort of orange juice isn’t suitable for vegetarians?).
Around 1pm i reached Portloe and finally got a pot of tea and baked potato, must add the two little ports mentioned were oh so pretty but oh so quiet as livings are no longer made there. Just another very enjoyable day.

(Above) I see no ships, only hardships.

(Below) Caerhays castle is passed on this leg of the journey.

Par

Cloudy with sunhine hot.
The night was spent on Dodman point (where there is an old watch house, handy shelter for hikers), as the sun went down fog suddenly arrived with rain, dawn was dry.

 

Early start on a day that would be tough climbs until Charlestown, With the low sun a cool start, the waste heaps inland at clay works looked like pyramids on the horizon, i came face to face with a fox rounding a bend he soon disapeared.
Goran haven was extreamly prety, soon after i got the footing wrong on wet wooden steps and slid down them luckily no damage.
Mevagissey was great, pastie and tea sitting in the sun so my trousers dried, the wet trail foliage had soaked below the knees. Neither holiday park at Par takes tents, but i found a shop for supplies.

Morning

yesterday i forgot to mention the wooded valley with stream and sculptures.
Last night was wild camp on Gribben head, (home to a huge old navigation marker) this morning was overcast, dry and warm. I could hear sea lapping the shore and the throb of fishing boat engines, these were distant enough to not affect the bird song , some of the birds being very close. Then there is the sight and smell of plants to numerous to name all around.

 

Just occasionally it seems a nice idea for a servant to arrive with the full breakfast followed by an easy chair and pot of tea to just sit and enjoy.
The reality of course was a tin of soup with bread and small black coffee, pack and now a mile on having climbed a slope and stile, its still great (wish you were here).

Looe

Arrived at Fowey and found a cafe for breakfast.

Approaching Fowey, the bay was dominated by a large cruise ship.

When i came out of the cafe fog and rain had moved over the area, i took the ferry across to Polruan and set of on route which was gentle to start with but the long tough climbs returned before Polperro. Sometimes near high points visibility was really limited but the well worn path was ok to follow. As time passed the rain eased and at low level the visibility was good out to sea but looking up i could see the fog/cloud base enveloping the cliff tops so the next climb put me back in it.
Eventually the sky cleared for a good view of Polperro as i approached it, and what a delightful little port it is, with enough shops for supplies.
Walking on to Looe proved an easier trail, slopes generally shorter/shallower, the town is quite a contrast, so many people.

Statue in Looe of a one eyed seal that apparently became famous for making appearances in the estuary for 25 years, it bacame known as Nelson.

Take a Break.

Taking a short break to give the legs a rest and replace worn clothing etc.

On LeJog i wore my Berghaus boots for the last 6oo miles using air-pillo insoles for a bit of extra softening, after that distance the insoles were looking a bit worn, new insoles in the Berghaus boots for the most recent leg of coast path (approx 200 miles) and already i have worn through the insoles.

 

I suspect this is due to the steep down slopes where the weight is on my heels and sliding forward at each step, so feel the insoles are saving a lot of wear on my feet. This may be some indication of the terrain on what is certainly a testing walk, the boots themselves i must say are holding up very well and i’m fitting new insoles for rest of journey which promises a bit less accent/decent per mile on average.

At the current temperatures water is the most important item to carry, i have found bread isn’t good as it ends up flat , wraps seem a better alternative as they are flat to start with, good with various fillings (marmalade is nice), tinned fish was fine until the juice leaked down my trousers. Getting supplies isn’t always easy and one frustration i’ve in general heard from other hikers is camp sites, some are great (basic, affordable and near the trail), others are distant, don’t take single night bookings, don’t take tents anymore and rip of prices, (worth mention is one place where a farmer had put up a sign “help yourself camping £2” and an honesty jar, now that would really make life easy if these were dotted around the coast) guess it all adds to the fun. Winge over, the trail is fabulous and many great people to meet, nature is a wonder in its beauty and variety (the lizards don’t stay still long enough for a photo).

I’m wandering along this coast line passing through numerous little ports and know nothing about sea fish or fishing, but i must say i’m attracted to the idea of catching and cooking my dinner, one bus driver (out of tintagel) assured me mackerel are easy peasy to catch with the minimum of equipment, and for a hiker to carry it would need to be a minimum of equipment, tent set up above high tide line, fire made from driftwood, cooking fresh fish as the sun goes down (it does sound good).

Misguided thief, I did hear the tale of someone who helped themselves as they thought to someone elses face cream, turns out the jar actually contained a haemeroid preparation, suppose it will keep their wrinkles at bay.

Seaton

Rain clearing.
Looe was absolutely packed with tourists and being so nice i can see why.
As expected , half an hour on the trail and people numbers had reduced by 99 percent.

Looking back towards Looe.
the trail this far is modestly taxing but as the humidity remains high sweat is the norm, from early high points the views back of Looe are really good, before Seaton a labyrinth is carved in the hillside.

Rame head

Downderry and Portwrinkle were quiet and pretty also a small shop for supplies, I soon found a grassy bank to sit down for a snack and then quickly realised i was on or close to an ants nest  along this stretch was one big climb through a wood and scrub the rest of the trail being relatively easy.
The military firing range was open for me to cross, and the high points allowed first views of Plymouth in the distance. (it looks big).

Find im disturbing magpie moths on occasion.

From Freathy onwards the cliffs are dotted with small wooden homes and the path goes up and down a lot to avoid the road, then climb towards Rame head which has an old ruin on top.

Plymouth

Overcast. misty rain at times.
I could get boring going on about the path, last night was comfy but noisy due to exposed position with the breeze tugging at tent material.
Up early for simple snack and pack, first surprise was two deer on the trail, from cliff top i could see people fishing from rocks despite the early hour. the path was relatively easy descending through scrub and woodland.

 

That’s one ornate shelter.

Cawsand and Kingsand were straight out of picture book with their narrow winding streets and tiny harbours, one shop keeper was kind enough to let me have a white coffee over an hour before shop opening time.
The path is a joy all the way to Cremyll, woodland parkland and some historical gardens, various ornate shelters along the way.

The ferry man advised me of location to cafe just in Plymouth which was good food and bad language, so there we are 10am, full of fry up several miles done, must be a good day.

Wembury

My guide book suggested the path was somewhat contorted across Plymouth, i had soon lost it so reverted to compass and gestimation, (of course a street map would be the answer) twice heavy showers suddenly started and i was well lucky to be near shelter and most of the rain missed me.
After some time and asking a post man i suddenly found my self back on course and passed the biggest marker post of the coast path.

I should mention the route could be greatly shortened by taking a second ferry , but i had decided to walk to the east end bridge which crosses towards  Plymstock, when i achieved this i was surprised to pass a rhinoceros closely followed by a poetry wall.

 

Took on provisions at a supermarket and continued  on course around various docks, boat repairs and general water front establishments, finally back on open coast line to jennycliff where i found a pot of tea and then found path closure section and had to use a road around this.
The walking remained easy to Wembury where the ferry had stopped two hours earlier, but luck again in getting directions to a camp site, the camp site was a good one and a half miles uphill from the coast but was basic and cheap, a small shop in the village is open early to late which is so handy for the hiker.

Bigbury on Sea

Blue sky clouding over, few speckles of rain.
Campsite hedge full of birds at sunup including gold finches, wander through village and small shop is open for supplies, walk the mile and a half to ferry point and then wait till 10 for first ferry.
Away on the path to Mothercombe which was great, easy slopes of woodland and cliff top mixture.

Now its ford a river estuary at low tide but the late ferry start meant i arrived at high tide, luckily i found a tea shop which helped with the 3 hour wait for water level to drop.
Decided i couldnt wait any longer so boots socks and trousers of, waterproof trousers on and wade steadily across. This worked really well though the ground could of been smoother, clean of and redress then away again over more testing slopes at times, by the time i reached Bigbury on sea the tide was full out exposing the causeway to Burgh island.

Lucky again, the second person i asked gave good directions to a camp site. This is right on the inland coast path route, when the tide is out a walk around the shoreline can be used instead. (camp site basic, 5 pounds).

East prawle

Wind and rain.
Started out with simple breakfast in tent, and the rain started so packed quick and of to Cockleridge for the ferry, there by 8 but ferry not till 10 so behind hedge out of rain to wait.
After an hour along came an Austrian lady who went to river and started removing boots, i went to ask if wise as my guide book suggested this was dangerous. She replied that her book said the same but her land lady at B+B had told her it was fine at low tide, so i followed suit, boots sock and trousers of and away we waded, no problem and find bench in lee of building to use various tissues and napkins to clean and dry feet, unfortunately she was shorter than me and had to change wet knickers mine were fine, soon redressed she went on trail i headed for shop that promised  pastie and coffee.
The wind and rain got worse, at bolt head i had decided not to take the attractive short cut , the fog got really thick and i was lost, (this became apparent when i found a sign that said i was heading to where i had last been) passed the same cows twice in different directions trying to find a sign, at broken sign which was leaning against a wall with arms pointing skyward i used compass to go in right direction and got back on track. (i actually headed for Sharp Tor and eventually found it surprising some Exmoor ponies in the fog,  this is part of the walk i won’t forget as i was definitely getting concerned i could be the twit lost on the cliffs and i was definitely wet).
In Salcombe the weather improved, and i was sat in a cafe with my mac of doing some drying out while enjoying a baked potato with cheese and salad accompanied by a pot of tea, i then took on supplies,  once across river on ferry the terrain was easy going and beautiful, met some people camped here who gave me soup and tea as i dried further by their fire, also saw a gannet fishing. quite the day.

Man sands

Cloud clearing to sunshine, one shower.
After yesterdays rain it was a pleasure to see a clear sky.
Early on track and the walking to start point was good with the sun rising.

At Torcross the post office was open for a coffee and ham roll, then along the gorgeous shingle bank at Slapton passing the tank memorial along the way.

 

 

At the far end i found a picnic area for rest with boots and socks off to do their last bit of drying out.

 

The walking to Dartmouth was fairly easy , at Dartmouth castle a tea room which the wasps had decided was an ideal food source proved amusing as people werent staying to long..
Wander around the town picking up supplies and take the ferry across the estuary..
The afternoon walking was much harder winding around the coast with many long steep slopes, then just before Brixham in small cove i met a family fishing, I ended up staying for the over night fishing and had the pleasure of fresh sea bass cooked on camp fire. must rate as special good day.

Shaldon

Blue sky, cloud forming, hot.
No more fish caught in the night, but what a beautiful dawn, at 5 am the sun was trying to appear but setting of low level mist on the horizon kept it as a pale red band sitting on the sea, at around 5:30 suddenly it won out and just crept above the mist in it’s clear glory, and there’s me sitting in a cove eating soup and just loving the scene, all to soon the fishing family were heading home and i was heading uphill on route (such pleasant strangers it would be nice if i ever meet them again).

As i rounded Berry head a long stretch of coastline came into view and it looked dominated by buildings ( i don’t exaggerate on this ), anyway wander down to Brixham sea front where the replica Golden hind (Francis drakes ship) is parked for tourists to walk over, i found a cafe that was open and had a breakfast with pot of tea, the surprise of the day was soon after i started on track there was a Jersey tiger moth (a not to common immigrant) i only remember seeing 3 in the past.

My guide book suggest many people bus around this day but i decided to do it as it represents part of the real coast, sure there was a lot of urban sprawl, plenty of slot machines and fun fairs, but some of the parts in between were cleverly stitched together rural links with some steep accents/descents its true, but also some very pleasant near level walking in welcome shady woodland, promenade walking is easy miles and did see the steam train.

Torquay onwards sees many path diversions which were confusing to me apparently due to landslips, so i soon lost the path and did a winding path much of my own (though confirmation posts were passed at times) around the coast, this may have been an easier effort wise option (it does highlight the fact that i haven’t the OS maps of route).

My map had a camp site at Shaldon but checking with tourist information in Torquay i find it doesn’t take tents, wild camping may have been an option but hardly remote, i chose to hop on a train home as this was cheaper than getting a room this time of year. Shaldon itself is pretty enough and it’s only a small walk to bridge over the river instead of taking the ferry. I’m glad i did this stretch but don’t think i would repeat it, meanwhile i can only look back on the last week as absolutely fantastic, i’ve met such friendliness and kindness along the trail that beggars a description for how good it’s been.

Exmouth

Sunny with fluffy clouds.
The walk from Teignmouth to Dawlish is mostly along side the railway passing under/over it several times, there is one diversion inland to climb over a rock outcrop that sees the trains taking a tunnel but even this is no great climb.
The railway itself is quite a marvel clinging to the coast as it does and as a journey on foot or train gives fine views across the Exe estuary, much of the sea wall protects and supports the railway with a promenade walkway along side and is fine (easy) walking.

From Dawlish warren to Starcross is road walking, two and a half miles which wasnt over busy so no great problem, then cross another rail bridge to pier and await the Exmouth ferry.

Budleigh Salterton

The river crossing was certainly pleasant, in fact the weather is so nice its all pleasant.
Exmouth wasnt over busy and i stopped for a baked potato with pot of tea, there were still quite a few plastic pirates as in other towns. The cliff climbs werent enormous and most of the trail was pleasant walking.
At Sandy bay there is an enormous static caravan park which contrasts nicely with the high red cliffs beyond it, the cliffs are beautiful in the evening sun.
Approaching Budleigh salterton is another visual joy the long pebbly beach forming a gentle crescent shape.

Brandy head

Cloudy sky clearing.
Last evening navigate around estuary nature reserve thinking about some where to camp when i happened across Dave and Debs putting tent up. So a good evening swapping trail tails, we were on the unplanted border of parsnip field.
This morning is fine walking over red sandstone cliffs where i came upon this old WW2 building.

 The rock age here is given as approx 200 million years, back in Cornwall 400 million years was an average so as i head east the geology is getting ever younger, there are plenty of land slips here as the sandstone seems relatively soft and is crumbling faster than other rocks, looking down at the coast it is possible to see discoloured water as the softer rocks are going into solution.

Looking back at the red sandstone cliffs.

Seaton

The day included several long steep slopes and i admit to taking several rests, the views gained from the high points were excellent. Sidmouth was excellent for breakfast and away on track.
The high light of the day came after Branscombe beach when the path reaches an underclif section. This is an area where a big landslip has occurred in the past giving a plateau half normal cliff hight, this is a jumble of soil types and has become well vegetated so plenty of shade/shelter, the path is gentle undulations and winding, looking up at chalk/limestone section there appeared to be at least one large cave.

The soil contains a lot of flints and these show up in local buildings.(hopefully some interesting photos to follow).

Lyme regis

Blue sky little cloud.
Last evening left Seaton and walked most of the way to Lyme Regis, moderate to easy walking.
This was another under cliff walk, not as tall cliff face exposed but a much larger area and so wonderfully over grown, perhaps the nearest great britain gets to jungle and a far from common environment these days. (here is plenty of evidence of the fissures that were caused in the landslip which are now covered with lush vegetation but still look some thing to be wary off), there are a few wet places which are slippery under foot, one wet piece of wood was sporting a fine array of fairies bonnet fungi, endless things for any naturalist to probe and walking this section of an evening meant i met nobody.
The gorgeous morning meant an easy stroll into Lyme Regis and wander along the beach looking at abundant fossils, the area has a great history for fossils as the rocks are now Jurassic in age, mention should be made of Ann manning and the great work she did here in the past tirelessly collecting parts of ichthyosaurs as they were exposed from the cliffs and assembling complete skeletons which are now in the natural history museum.
I’m all in favour of education but also recognise that some are just natural for a task, and Mary anning was certainly a natural talent worthy of admiration.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Anning

The ammonites vary from one large to many small in a rock.

Fish supper

From Lyme Regis the official coast path diverts quite a way inland on tarmac, the unofficial alternative is to walk along the shore on a low/ lowering tide.
(the tide was high when i arrived) , so have a breakfast and decided to take a one hour trip on fishing boat to try for mackerel, little did i expect to catch 11, so im keeping 3 for supper, the tide is dropping nicely so a few hours of sea-shore looking for fossils is next on the list. Seems a rather good day.

West bay

As the tide was ebbing in Lyme Regis quite a que of people gathered and suddenly it was go, with others coming from Charmouth direction there was a whole lot of fossil hunting going on.
Belemnites seemed abundant and found small tooth from some ancient critter, its quite something walking on all this history.
The beach walking was a welcome change and making good time i stuck with it to Seaton, the beach is quite rocky in parts but no great problem.
A few steep climbs on the way to West bay with Portland bill clearly visible from the tops.
A couple of stiff showers during the afternoon and it is now raining at the campsite (behind the amusement park, 7 pounds).

Abbotsbury

Cloud and rain.
West bay has plenty of food establishments and the big breakfast was good, despite the central amusement park (easily avoided) this seemed a nice place, its another town where the old railway station is now a tea shop.

The path onwards starts with a steep climb but quickly  they diminish to easy walking, the rain eased midday but continues damp at times.
Part of the walk is on chesil beach a huge/long shingle bank where its interesting to see a few plants that have evolved to live in such a nutrient poor situation.

Portland

Not a great deal to say about this afternoon except it was a very pleasant plot through mostly farm land, a joy after so many gradient days. The coast path is actually behind the fleet which is the stetch of water behind chesil beach,  the quide gives reasons for this such as nesting turns amongst the shingle so i assume but can’t be certain that it would be possible to walk carfully along the whole shingle beach.

One perhaps ammusing memory from the afternoon was at one stage i could hear a lot of shouting, a couple of fields later i came accross the source which was two people that appeared to be attempting the training of a dog called Dave, the dog unless deaf was just not interested and came across to investigate my approach, i was assured he wasn’t dangerous just curious as i wandered by, the shouting continued as i dissapeared around some woodland.
Suddenly at ferry bridge its heavy traffic alongside as i cross to Portland, i’ve been really lucky in that  a group camped on the cliffs have let me join them for another great sunset, at least 30 tents on chesil beach stretching away into the distance.

Weymouth

Cloud and mist restricting vision, windy on high parts, clearing to breezy sunshine late afternoon.

Last night was remarkable luck, the people who let me pitch next to them had been snorkeling with spear gun and along with sausages/burgers/spare ribs on the fire had a fish they had caught (pollock) and a lobster, Later it was time to light an enormous fire work which more like many in a box linked together, so there was a five minute steam of shooting stars many of which exploded.

Early start and the only shop i could find open was limited in supplies so i had a bar of chocolate and bottle of water for the morning, the round the island path soon moves up to the high ground passing many old quarries for stone is what this near island is famous for. Amongst the rocks had close encounter with a kestrel.

 

 

 

 

At the southern point of Portland bill is a working light house and close by a cafe with the common sign “hot food served all day” , it wasn’t open, most of the island circuit is quite easy walking and old cranes feature on route.

 

 

The walk to Portland bill from ferry bridge involved taking a cycle way beside the road, for the return trip i took the old railway line, both suffered with road noise, back at ferry bridge it’s turn right and follow the old railway (now a tarmac track) towards Weymouth, there is little left of the old stations on route.

 

 

In this case just a name plate and small amount of platform. The coast path leaves this old track bed and gets back to the shoreline on its way into Weymouth, the walk to a road bridge is really short to cross the river and quite pleasant despite being busy with tourists. Weymouth itself is very busy indeed but nice enough, i was lucky enough to hear a steamers whistle as i approached the town and on finding the rail station it wasn’t long before the train loaded up and pulled out for London.

 

From the pier in Weymouth the view of coastline ahead looks rather inviting.

Slide show experiment

 

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The hooken undercliff between Branscombe and Lyme Regis.

Lulworth cove

Overcast, one long shower in afternoon.
Weymouth was very busy with a carnival day.

When entering a wooded area surprisingly came across another Jersey tiger moth (they aint common honest), soon after that the long shower arrived, i hid in the woods taking a snack for some time then gave in and fitted water proofs, 10 minutes later the rain stopped and as the water proofs dried they were stowed again (this is a common event for hikers and better than being wet).

The walking was easy to start with but ended with a couple of tough climbs back on chalk cliffs that offered fine views back to Portland bill.

 
 

Looking back at Portland bill.

Im at the campsite (16) so not cheap, guide book suggests no supplies en route tomorrow so here is handy for water and there is a late opening shop. Luckily im pitched against a hedge as a strong chilly wind has got up.

Another cliff shot, they really are magnificent, and the walk wouldn’t be complete without a photo of Durdle door (rock arch).

Durlston

Overcast improving, wind variable strong at times.
I had been harboring a cold for a while, yesterdays sneezing was no great problem but last nigh it turned to streaming nose so a far from good sleep, this was augmented by someone officious tapping on the tent after i had bedded down to inform me i had to move as there had been a complaint i was to near another tent! (i’ve heard of others finding a case of pettiness on their hikes and guess today was my turn).

I found today really tough, some of the climbs being enormous.

 

Quite early from high points i could see Poole harbour, from St Albans head i could see the isle of wight.
When i reached Kimmeridge bay i lay down for over an hour by the nodding donkey oil well (felt like staying longer but no water supply).

 

At Durlston part of the coast path is closed,

The lucky part at Durlston park was finding toilets that had taps (on basins) so water was available, (many modern toilets now have hand driers and no taps grrrr).

South haven point (Aug 20th)

Overcast, quite misty early wind variable.
A good nights sleep on scrub land, when i looked out of tent there was a black rabbit, i took this as a good omen.

 

Walk down to Swanage included seeing three campers in the park, one must have arrived to late to put his tent up as was just wrapped in tent material with an arm showing , no movement so not in a hurry to get on the trail.
First bit of luck was seeing a cafe open for breakfast at 7:30, walking through Swanage this time of day is perfectly pleasant (quiet).
The onlly climb of the day was onto Ballard down where the wind was a bit fierce, passed old harry rocks then descended on the lee side of headland where it was calm and saw three types of fungi one tree.

 

Amble along to middle beach for mug of tea then a gentle waters edge stroll to the finnish sign.

One sign anounced that dogs are not allowed on a section of beach (except those walking the coast path).